Carmen Wolfschluckner
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Allgemein

Allgemein |

November 30, 2019

| by Carmen Wolfschluckner

Gianni Versace Retrospective

Lavish vinyl dresses, bright colors and leather harnesses — the bold yet feminine style of Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace and his eponymous label has shaped contemporary fashion enormously.

Growing up in Calabria, Italy and watching his mother work in her own couture workroom led to Versace building his own empire at the tender age of 26. He was greatly influenced by Italian Baroque and Grecian motifs but simultaneously fascinated by rock, art and bondage. The combination of those attributes quickly became his signature style and eventually led to Versace becoming one of the greatest fashion houses of all time. Not only did he create wearable pop-art, unisex clothing and new materials, but he invented supermodels and altered the way fashion was presented, by filling his front row with celebrity faces. Tragically, at the peak of his success, Gianni Versace was assassinated in 1997 in Miami Beach, Florida. However, more than two decades later his era-defining collections are still an inspiration to designers and fashion lovers. His family has ensured that Versace remains a major international label. Now, collectors from all over the world made pieces from their private collections available for a spectacular exhibition to pay tribute to the man who brought rock, sexuality and classical art to the fashion world.

Gianni Versace was an Italian designer but his ties with Germany go way back to the start of his career. His very first show took place in 1978 in Lippstadt, North Rhine-Westphalia after being invited by the legendary boutique owner Albert Eickhoff. 1994 followed Versace’s first exhibition at the Berlin Museum of Decorative Arts which he personally curated and opened. Now, to celebrate his 70. birthday, the fashion & culture e.V. association Berlin decided to showcase his most beautiful and treasured works again on „home ground“. Gianni Versace Retrospective encloses more than 300 original pieces from private collectors around the world, ranging from sketches and images to accessories and dresses as well as one of a kind items such as the legendary patchwork dress Linda Evangelista wore at his fall/winter 1991 show. Taking place at the Crown Prince Palace on the boulevard Unter den Linden it marks the largest exhibition of Versace to date and is the perfect venue to emphasize his unique and extraordinary style. 

This text was written for the Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition.

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Allgemein |

November 30, 2017

| by Carmen Wolfschluckner

Maison Cléo

Maison Cléo, a french label run by a mother-daughter duo based in Lille is all the rage right now. When Marie Dewet started uploading pictures of clothes her mom had made for her on Instagram, people seemed to love their style and only three months later, they started selling their first products. This was back in December 2016, while now fashion lovers from all over the world are waiting patiently for Wednesday to arrive, as Maison Cléo opens its online shop only once a week and only at a particular time. Within a few minutes all the effortlessly chic blouses and dresses are sold out, leaving customers empty-handed and frustrated. However, certain items are simply worth waiting for: especially if they are made out of organic materials and with lots of love and passion. Maison Cléo’s concept is namely to produce solely made to order by only one seamstress–Marie Dewet’s mom herself. A great approach to teach fast fashion lovers a lesson and let them wait. Inspired by their concept and the beauty of their garments I wanted to know more about the vision behind Maison Cléo and reached out to Marie Dewet directly.

When did you decide to start the business and why at that time?
I started in September, basically to show what my mom made for me but we started selling in December as people loved our clothes and the styling. We never intended to start our own label but here we are.

What makes your clothes so different?
That we don’t use synthetic materials.

photo via Maison Cléo

What is your personal opinion on fast-fashion?
I own nothing from Zara, H&M, Mango, etc. as these brands deeply disgust me. It’s the way they produce their clothes and the fabrics they are using which is polyester, polyester and even more polyester, I hate it. Additionally they cause a huge amount of pollution by producing tons of garments and as a result everybody is dressed the same way. I really don’t understand why that is attracting to so many customers. 

Why did you decide against an atelier to produce your garments?
Simply because we don’t want to become bigger, but also because it would not be the same if it wasn’t only me and my mom as this is the reason people like the brand. Still, I am currently thinking about hiring another seamstress just to help my mom as she is so busy. She basically starts her day at 7 am and then finishes around 11 pm. I want to take care of her as she is working way too much.

How did it feel when you were forced to close the online shop because everything was sold out immediately?
It has always been the case since July. Whenever I open the e-shop I have to close it ten minutes later. To some customers its frustrating but again, seeing as my mom is the only seamstress we cannot offer more. So I came up with the idea to open the shop once a week at a particular time so people know in advance.

What was the reaction of your customers to this new system? Do they understand the hard and loving work that goes into every single piece?
Most of them do, but I always receive e-mails saying they are so excited to get their orders and if it is possible to deliver a little bit faster as the time frame for our delivery is 1-2 weeks at the moment. Still, there is a tremendous amount of positive feedback and even people who missed the sale are happy to wait until next week as they love our concept and are touched by our dedication of not changing it.

What are your plans for the future?
As I said, possibly hiring another seamstress so my mom can rest in between or simply train the new one as she is a complete perfectionist and a little bit stubborn. She wants to make every piece by herself as it has to be done perfectly but I think it is time for her to give orders.

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Allgemein |

November 26, 2017

| by Carmen Wolfschluckner

MIT STIL ZUM BUNDESPRESSEBALL

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Allgemein |

July 6, 2017

| by Carmen Wolfschluckner

LENA HOSCHEK’S HOMAGE TO PIROSCHKA

(Photo by Emmanuele Contini/NurPhoto via Getty Images)

Although the Austrian designer could not attend the show herself, she made sure to show off the perfect ethic summer styles for next year, inspired by traditional Hungarian trachten.

BERLIN, Germany – With Mercedes Benz Fashion Week taking place in the charming old department store „Kaufhaus Jandorf“, the backdrop could not be more Berlinese. The green wallpaper is crumbling, wires are hanging from the ceiling and the floor is ripped out. Still, Lena Hoschek managed to bring her notorious fifties retro chic to the rustic runway and took us on a journey to Hungary with her new spring/summer 2018 collection „Kiss me, Piroschka“, which was shown on Tuesday, 4 July 2017.

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Allgemein |

July 1, 2017

| by Carmen Wolfschluckner

Interview Véronique Tristram

This article was published in the print issue of WERK VI in July 2017.

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Carmen Wolfschluckner 2018 © Luminary Portfolio